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Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life - Finnegan, William

Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life

William Finnegan

Yayınevi: Corsair

Yayın tarihi: 05/2016

ISBN: 9781472151414

İngilizce | 512 Sayfa | 12,6x19,41x3,81 cm.

Tür: Biyografi-Otobiyografi

  • 75,26 TL

WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

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